Lorena Jiménez

13 jun 20204 Min. de lectura

Dreaming of Summer

Standout Collections From Seoul Fashion Week S/S20

LIE: THE ART OF DIVING

Creative Director of LIE Chung Chung Lee dove into the lives of the Haenyo (해녀), a community of elderly Korean women divers in Jeju who keep their household afloat through fishing and searching for bountiful treasures under the sea. They are not only a symbol of Korea’s cultural heritage but also a representation of women’s strength, courage, and resilience. Sadly, the last of their generation are dwindling, and because of this, LIE told their compelling narrative through modern daily scuba suits, fishnet accessories, woven bags, and traditional Korean robes that seek to inspire and pay tribute to the art of diving. The show’s introduction was particularly dramatic, with a singer and dance choreography that was both haunting and moving. The collection’s references were clear: it reflected a deep-sea journey that combined pieces with prints, details, and colors that mimic the scenes above and underwater.

YOUSER: LIVING ON THE EDGE

From start to end, Creative Director of Youser Lee Mooyeol’s goal was clear: his clothes are meant to have that shock factor that will send chills down the spectator’s spine from start to end. His collection was part performance, part spectacle, with neon-reflecting clothes glowing under the purple lights and the haunting sound of metal hardware accessories that can be clearly heard clacking as the models stomped on the runway. His vision of clothes is mostly genderless, with fringes, embellished denim, belt buckles, bolo ties, boot chains, leather, and hats depicting a futuristic world of the wild, wild west. The collection revisits the image of a heroic cowboy riding his horse under the blue skies—only this time this old western fantasy is shattered and dragged into modernity through an edgy wearer whose audacity and confidence are amplified by his or her clothes.

FAYEWOO: THE NEW EVENING WEAR

Creative Director Faye Woo first introduced her eponymous line with “feminine looks fused with wild rock n’ roll inspiration” in 2007. Fast forward to today, her original aesthetic still shines through in her own interpretation of Spring-Summer, which was filled with perfectly tailored dresses and pieces that every independent, go-getting woman would want to wear. Instead of the usual light and flowy fabrics typically expected of the season, the brand brought out one glamorous outfit after another, with power shoulders, glittery fringes, metallic sequins, and luxurious lace. For Fayewoo, summer isn’t about languidly lounging under the sun—instead, it’s embracing the vibrant energy of life and looking the part.

HAN CHUL LEE: THE BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY

In a new season of Seoul Fashion Week filled with uncountable patterns, designer Han Chul Lee surprised us with monochromatic outfits presented in both neutral and bright colors. A collection that evoked masculinity, charisma, and the savoir-faire of experience. Models hit the runway to soft music and perfectly tailored clothing, in which every detail had been carefully considered. From top to bottom, accessories brightened up the looks. Jewelry, hats, and footwear brought the collection together in harmony while slowly developing into more sophisticated designs and richer fabrics with each new outfit. Visible clothing tags, seams, linings, fabric splits, belting, and ankle straps added together to create the perfect look. And don’t forget the footwear, a personal favorite, also designed by Han Chul Lee himself in collaboration with streetwear brand Descente. In this 20 SS Bom-Yeorm collection, which started sober and powerful but finished brighter and sexier, the minimal silhouettes and careful attention to detail did nothing but accentuate the beauty of simplicity.

GREEDILOUS: THE ART OF SHOWMANSHIP

When it comes to Greedilous, you can always expect a big show and designer Youn Hee Park never disappoints. Extensive collections, vivid colors, games of volumes, eye-catching patterns that seem to almost come out of the fabrics, and a big element of surprise are never missing from her parades. All components were present in this last 20SS season, with designer Park “inspired by Cleopatra herself” in interpreting the beauty of liberal self-expression by creating a chandelier-like aesthetic through her patterns, accessories, and silhouettes. The beauty and diversity of femininity, in which tribal-like makeup, tassel purses, retro vibes, colorful two-piece sets, and colorful headscarves were the main stars, added an exotic and luxurious feel to her new collection.

HAUSOFPBK: MAKING FASHION TIMELESS

Hausofpbk and designer Park Byung Kyu delighted us with a collection to dress not only the woman but the lady. Mostly monochromatic colors but with a game in shapes, volumes, and patterns that even when clean could never be classified as boring. Detailed outerwear, semi-formal two-piece suits, voluminous skirts, and classic yet unique dresses took the lead in a collection that while being wearable would still make anybody stand out of the crowd. Rich fabrics, a mix of elements, and beautiful silhouettes completed the designs, giving birth to a new Spring-Summer collection in the form of fashion that, even while following the current trends, will stay timeless for a long time. Designer Park Byung Kyu proved once again that he does not create fast fashion in the hopes of temporary approval. He creates fashion that represents a lifestyle, one that exudes timeless class and luxury.