A Primer On All Things You Need To Know About Seoul Fashion Week
In 2015, fashion editor Bethan Holt predicted in Grazia magazine that Korean fashion would be “The Next Big Thing,” and that it was “time to get serious about Korean fashion.” She wrote further, “From a fashion perspective, it seems like the talent emerging from Korea is also anticipating how we’ll be dressing into the future.”
That forecast was four years ago, but the Korean fashion industry has been making a name for itself for far longer than that. The country has been exporting high-quality textiles and producing homegrown designers that have gained prominence in the international scene, while Seoul’s fashionable youth have also caught the world’s attention with their unique contemporary styles. The surge of interest in Korean culture, particularly in films, music, and cuisine, has shifted the spotlight to Korean fashion. At present, Seoul Fashion Week has become one of the largest and most-watched events not only in Korea but also the world, with Seoul being touted as a formidable and emerging fashion capital.
The best local designers are showing off their talents once again at the 2020 S/S Seoul Fashion Week from October 14 to 19, 2019 at the famed Dongdaemun Design Plaza, which also features up-and-coming Korean designers in shows aptly called “Generation Next.”
HISTORY OF SEOUL FASHION WEEK
Hosted by the Seoul Metropolitan Government and organized by the Seoul Design Foundation, Seoul Fashion Week (SFW) is a bi-annual series of global fashion business events, held in March and October. Before it became known as SFW, fashion shows first kicked off in 1987 and were simply known as “local festivals” that did little to attract a big audience, much less international buyers. For decades, the Korean fashion industry struggled financially, and in 2004, authorities even pondered disbanding the fashion organizations that put them together. Things only started looking up a few years later when Korea experienced an economic and cultural boom.
In 2015, Korean designer Jung Ku Ho was appointed as the first general director of SFW in its 15-year history, and he had the herculean task of putting Korean fashion on the international map.
Under his leadership, he initiated “10 Soul,” a project that aimed to discover 10 young creative designers whose brands would be marketed globally and be offered a platform that was accessible to international buyers and fashion editors.
“Publicity for Korean designers is one of the key missions we are trying hard to fulfill to help them earn international recognition,” Jung told The Korea Times. “We’re trying to let international fashion experts know we have several innovative designers who are as competitive as designers in the world’s fashion capitals, so they can consider partnering with them.”
In the next few years, SFW’s objective changed from introducing Korean designers to the world to turning the buzz into a sustainable, profitable business. Collaborations with brands and sponsored shows have become more common, and the “see-now-buy-now” system that fashion weeks in the west have begun to adopt is also being initiated in SFW through trade shows and buyer exhibitions. The fashion world has also been opened wider to the public, unlike before where only a privileged few could attend. Local and international experts are often invited to forums and discussions that are happening in the same week as the shows.
“In the past, when I met fashion experts overseas, very few knew about Korean designers. But now they know almost all Korean designers, which surprised me,” Jung added. “I feel SFW is on the right track and will take off soon.”
A REAL SFW EXPERIENCE
So far, we’ve given you only a peek into the makings of SFW. Groove Korea editors Lorena and Dianne dig in deeper into this event and share their tips, thoughts, predictions, and experiences based on their regular coverage of the shows.
WHAT IS A DAY IN SFW LIKE?
Lorena: It is an adventure. At times it is more like being in a movie, where you live all sorts of experiences in no more than a couple of hours. You have wonderful moments, the extremely inspiring ones when you see a great collection, an innovative show, or something that just clicks with you and at that moment you get thousands of ideas. For articles, new projects and even outfits... but take into account that just seconds ago you were exhausted and stressed running around unfed, canceling your food order because a show had changed just to find out upon arrival that your reserved tickets have been taken away by someone else.
Dianne: It’s pretty hectic, to say the least! Some shows happen simultaneously and in different venues, so if you’re not on time you just might miss them or worse, have your seat taken! There are days when we didn’t even have time for lunch. But despite the full schedule, it’s always exciting and it’s the only time of the year when we’re able to see different spectacles from every designer.
HOW HAS SFW CHANGED FROM THE FIRST TIME YOU ATTENDED?
L: I do not think fashion week will ever stop changing. And that is the beauty of it; just like the people, fashion week also keeps on evolving. Sometimes for the better, and other times changes lead to many critics, but SFW never stays stagnant. That makes me happy because the day that fashion and consequently fashion week stop moving will be the end of fashion. Fashion needs to flow, be in movement, and embrace creativity. And even if a step along the way seems wrong, that might be the step leading to a brighter future. That said, I feel like the most substantial change has occurred with the spotlight at fashion week, which nowadays is more centered outside than in. In a way, it is more of a spectacle. I feel like we need to redirect a bit more of the spotlight inwards, as it is the birth of Korean fashion but I also have to point out the great development in many new designers, new names that bring a breath of fresh air with their collections.
D: It has changed tremendously. I first started watching around 2010 when the shows were held at IFC Mall in Yeouido and not at DDP. Back then, there were not a lot of international press or foreign guests invited to the shows, and there were not that many street style crowds outside the shows. The real stars of fashion week were the models. Photographers were waiting for them to come out and take photos as they shuffled from one show to another. I would say that there was much more focus on the designers’ collection back then because there was not much coverage of street style, unlike now. It’s both an advantage and a disadvantage, in my opinion. Nowadays, attention has been given to the fashion crowds more but at the same time, we can’t discourage this because it’s great that more and more people are now more aware of SFW and want to be a part of it. Instead of seeing this as a competition or an exclusive event, it should be regarded as a celebration of fashion that welcomes everyone.
THE GOOD AND THE BAD: WHAT ARE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SIDES OF SFW?
L: I feel like you can get stressed, angry, excited, hugely inspired, or even sad at times, such as when fashion week or good shows end. I believe that is the best and worst part of fashion week, living on the edge. It is of course not dangerous or anything but having a constant emotional state where things are always on the verge, for the good AND the bad, can get rather exhausting. I sometimes think that FW brings out the worst in me, but at the same time, I believe that to be a blessing, in the form of a new learning process.
D: Like I mentioned, the media’s coverage of the fashion crowds makes it hard for the designers to gain attention but, nowadays, designers are becoming more creative in getting their work noticed even outside of the runways. SFW has come a long way since its inception, and while I have seen big changes in the system, organization of the shows, attendees, and off-site events, there is room for improvement for sure. In every big event, there’s bound to be some flaws, but I could say that the positive outshines any negative aspects.
TOP DESIGNERS: WHICH DESIGNER SHOWS DO YOU OFTEN LOOK FORWARD TO WATCHING?
L: I definitely do have huge expectations for some shows, and less in mind for others, but sometimes those shows that I had not put much thought into end up being the most inspiring. That said, besides the brands that never disappoint me, lately, I have a huge crush on menswear and new generation designers.
D: There’s a lot but off the top of my head, it’s YCH, Tibaeg, Romanchic, LIE, Studio K, and Generation Next designers. I have this affinity for young, undiscovered talents, some of whom I met and wrote about last season. They have so much potential and fresh ideas, and their humility disarms me.
WHAT IS YOUR PERSONAL DRESSING STRATEGY?
L: I can never plan my outfits in advance. For me fashion is in a way some sort of armor; it does not matter if it is helping me to express how I feel that day, helping me express my individuality or just a way to make me feel comfortable to tackle something specific with more confidence. I do have a small strategy: I like to narrow down my wardrobe to those items that I would like to wear and make possible combinations, but the truth is that most times I never end up wearing those combinations. I improvise last minute, but I do wear those key items most times one day or the other. So I guess my advice would be to find a key point and build your outfit around that, but most importantly be you and wear it with pride. Confidence and self-love are the best accessories.
D: I don’t have a set plan because I often wear whatever I feel like during the day. But given that there’s not much time to decide during fashion week, I always stick to my personal style: minimal, simple, and with one or two standout key fashion items. I know that for many people, fashion week is the time to shine and get decked out in loud, extravagant, and outlandish trends, but I don’t think that those styles suit me (laughs).
TREND FORECAST: STYLES THAT WILL BE POPULAR THIS S/S 2020
1. Street style: Athleisure, sporty, casual looks will always be a part of the repertoire of Korean fashion. That is what makes it intrinsically unique from its western fashion week counterparts.
2. Stand-out colors: Bold and deep colors that make a statement. It does not matter if it is through one piece, color combinations, or a one-color look. Color is here to stay.
3.Suit dressing: Athleisure has been going strong in the last couple of years, but lately, suits are making a big come back. It does not matter if it is for males or females, designers are suiting it up in every collection.
4. A big shift towards menswear: Womenswear used to be the main focus during fashion weeks all over the world, but nowadays, with male-only fashion weeks and more and more designers focusing on men’s fashion, menswear is the next big thing.
5.Genderless items and collections: Besides menswear getting trendier, many designers are coming back with genderless items and even collections in which the lines between male and female are intertwined more often than not.
6.Oversize jackets: Oversized jackets are the new “mom jeans”. They are everywhere and here to stay… at least for a while. Square shapes that could belong to your grandpa´s suit will continue to accessorize most outfits for the next season.
7.Volume: It does not matter if it is in the form of big sleeves, layers, romantic dresses, or even furry items. Volume will be adding that extra “je ne sais quoi” through new clothing pieces.
8.Sustainable fashion: A few designers came out with zero-waste, eco-friendly collections last season, but with global warming and pressing environmental issues coming to the fore, hopefully, more brands will take heed.
9.Social statements: In previous shows, themes like peace, feminism, and mental health were addressed through clothes that symbolize the current state of Korea and the world. Korean designers are now becoming more and more courageous in speaking their minds through fashion and surely we will see more of this.
10.Inclusivity and representation: Models from different parts of the world are starting to walk the SFW runways and hopefully there will be more opportunities for representation this season and the next. This doesn’t just relate to race. We have yet to see models of different body types in the shows, and this could be a great addition that would resonate with a diverse audience. But we have seen mature/senior citizen models rock the runways, and hopefully, this is not just a trend.
STYLING TIPS TO GET THE BEST STREET-STYLE SHOTS
1. Be fashionable but comfortable: There’s always this temptation to wear outfits that look great on you but may compromise your comfort like high heels or clothes that will leave you shivering in the cold. If you’re willing to make a sacrifice in the name of fashion, at least bring extra clothing or footwear just to be sure.
2.Be on the lookout for unique backgrounds when taking your photos: DDP will be filled with people and its modern, gray-colored surroundings often look the same in photos but keep your eyes open for distinct backgrounds that can make your outfit stand out!
3.Make friends with the fashion crowd: Chill and mingle! It just might surprise you who you’ll meet and end up being friends with after fashion week.
4.Accessorize: Accessories can make or break an outfit, so make sure you don’t overdo it. When choosing a bag, a pair of shoes, a hat, or jewelry, check first if it will complement your outfit or give it a boost depending on the look you are going for.
5.Makeup: If you have great makeup skills, today is the day to bring them all out, but if you are not a big makeup guru stay with a good base and add some special touches if you like. You do not want to be caught in hundreds of pictures with a makeup look that you will regret.
6.Create angles: When posing, do not stay straight like a stick try to create angles with your body and movement through your poses. Walk slowly back and forth, put your hand in your pocket creating a triangle, angle one hip, you do you but do not stay stagnant in a pose.
7.Bring an attitude: Fashion week is not the time to awkwardly look at the camera and smile, instead, look at the lens with something to say. Bring an attitude, look fun, daring and confident. Wear confidence as well as you wear your clothes.
8.Move along: It is clear that one of the main entries to DDP is where most pictures get taken, but there is a lot of competition. Too many people getting the same shot, fashion week beginners waiting to get their picture taken, and a lot of newbie photographers. Instead move here and there, walk around those areas where there might be fewer people but still some photographers looking for the perfect shot.
9.Simply belong: More times than not, the fashion week beginners stand out a lot. It is very obvious those who have not attended many fashion weeks. To avoid that, instead of just staying in a corner waiting for a picture, fake it until you make it; move around with confidence, talk to people here and there and do your thing without fear. Also, do not be afraid to ask new photographers to take your picture if you have a good outfit; they will love to get the opportunity to take some shots of their own.
10.Stay true to your personality: The “be yourself” adage is almost cliche now but that’s because there is a universal truth to it. Any outfit, whether it’s simple or grand, will look amazing if you feel great and confident in it.
Editors: Dianne Pineda-Kim & Lorena Jiménez
Written for Groove Magazine
Photography: Manon Thore, Natalie Rapisarda, and Izzy Schreiber
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