Thursday, March 22nd, 10:00 am, this time I am heading towards Art Hall 2, to watch my 3rd show of the season, the new FW 2018 collection by designer Han Chul Lee.
Han Chul Lee, the brand, is a fairly young label like most Korean fashion brands, especially if compared to their European or even American counterparts. The fashion scene in Seoul and Korean fashion, in general, are quite young, having boomed through the 2010s, yet proving that young, is not necessarily something negative. More and more designers are bringing their take on style and trends, building new roads for creativity. Han Chul Lee is one of them, a designer that might have established his brand only 4 years ago, but also a creator that has a lot to say with his art.
Han Chul Lee, founded his menswear brand, sharing his own same name, in 2014, but prior to that he had launched collections and taken part in many creative projects and competitions in Europe and Asia.
On previous collections such as “The Body”, “Savage Grace” or “W.D.L.B.” he brought us, original and beautifully tailored pieces, influenced by the mixture and combination of different sources of inspiration, such as the movement and structure on the human body, or the combination of cultures.
In this 2018, with “Romantic Equipment” for the FW collection and “Starboy” for the SS season, designer Han Chul Lee has shown us a new side on his creations. Pieces created under very distinct structural work on the pattern design when compared to previous seasons and presenting a slightly looser fit that enables pieces to generate their own movement when worn. Collections with wider color palettes, slowly driving away from his usual choices, based in predominantly black, reds, and the occasional white.
What always remains consistent is his major attention to details, from linings to buttons, everything has a goal behind it, not leave a single part of the body unattended, even when most outfits are not overly accessorized.
On this runway, we were able to see turtlenecks, statement necklaces, velvet boots and my personal favorite, the beautiful royal blue and black gloves protecting the hands of the models and giving the outfits an edgier point.
Head accessories that have been a staple this season all around Paris and Milan, where any types of hats, scarfs and different head accessories have been in the spotlight. Han Chul Lee also kept going with this trend, presenting many of the outfits, hats and or head wraps in different colors and materials.
Overall the collection was filled with designs that even when looking sober, held extreme attention to detail. Traditional graphics, very few patterns, mostly checkered yet pieces build with not only the basic asymmetry but also his signature layering on the item´s construction. Pieces that portrayed a slightly looser fit, while aiming to maintain classic tailoring elements. With lines that could remind of a KENZO of earlier years.
Following the concept he had chosen for his SS 2018, he introduced us to a new season in which asymmetry and denim were still present. Yet having left acids and athleisure look behind, substituting it for structured outerwear pieces that bring emphasis on the upper body. Pieces with predominant royal blue, yellows and red, along with some black, one of his colors by excellence.
Comentários